I'm a little picky when it comes to seafood. I don't eat oysters,
clams, or mussels. However, I do love lobster, crab, shrimp, scallops,
and certain types of fish (ones that aren't too "fishy" tasting). I will
try almost anything once though so when Ross kept raving about the
smokies from
Arbroath, I was curious to see what the fuss was all about.
First, a little history!
Arbroath is on the North Sea Coast of Scotland, about 16 miles east of
Dundee and 45 miles south of
Aberdeen.
In 1839 a new harbour was built and became one of the larger fishing
ports in Scotland by the 20th century. The fishing industry grew,
however, from the 1980s onwards quota cuts and decommissioning affected
the industry throughout Scotland. Today, the fish processing sector is
still one of the largest employers in Arbroath, however, fish for
processing now comes from other areas such as Aberdeen, Norway, and
Ireland.
1
 |
Arbroath Harbour |
Arbroath is most famous for its
smokies,
which was first created in the village of Auchmithie. Line-caught
haddock from the North Sea is gutted and head removed, then salted
before being tied up in pairs and hung on rods to dry. Once they are
dry, the haddock is smoked over beach or oak hard wood. Arbroath was
awarded a
Protected Geographical Indication in 2004, which means the
smokie
can only be called such if it is produced within 4km of Arbroath.
Today, family-owned and run smokehouses still fill the town with its
delicious
smokie aromas with recurring surnames like Spink, Cargill, Swankie, and Smith claiming their
smokies as the best.
1,2,3
 |
Looking out onto the North Sea |
We drove from Ross' hometown of
Leven, which is just north of
Edinburgh,
and it took us a little over an hour to get to the little coastal town
of Arbroath. We found a spot to park at the harbour and went for a walk
around the
Fit o' the Toon, the area of land given to attract fishermen to Arbroath in the 1800s.
2 You could immediately smell the delicious
smokie air and we'd arrived around lunch time so I was ready to feast!
 |
M&M Spink looking out onto the harbour |
We came across
M&M Spink's,
a small family-run business founded by William (Bill) Spink in 1965,
who continues his family's tradition that began in Auchmithie.
3 The
smokehouse overlooks the harbour with its modest yet inviting entrance
located at 10 Marketgate. It felt like we were walking into someone's
backyard and they just happened to have a lot of smoked fish hanging
around. They had also just gotten back from sea so there were crates of
fresh fish ready to be gutted and beheaded. They let us into the back
where the magic happens - there were batches of fish being dried whilst
others were about to go into the smoker. It all smelled so good, I had
to refrain myself from grabbing a fish and eating it right then and
there. Ross and I finally decided on getting haddock and salmon and the
lady who was taking care of our orders said she'd just made fresh fish
cakes so we told her to throw a couple into the bag as well. We made our
purchase, thanked them, and off we went to find a place to eat our
smokies.
 |
M&M Spink at 10 Marketgate (left) |
We found a place overlooking the sea on
King's Drive next to Victoria Park where we indulged in the
smokies.
You could taste the fresh smokey-ness in each bite that melted in your
mouth. Both were so delicious, however, I think I prefer the salmon just
a little more than the haddock. We ate with our fingers and didn't even
need side dishes because one each of the haddock and salmon was enough
to fill both Ross and I up. We saved the fish cakes for breakfast
the following day and boy, were they yummy! I'm not really one to have
seafood for breakfast but I'd have an Arbroath
smokie fish cake any day.
 |
M&M Spink's smoked salmon |
 |
M&M Spink's smokie |
The fish were delicious but what I found the most interesting was Arbroath's history behind the
smokie.
There are so many huge companies taking over and taking small
businesses out so seeing the family-run smokehouses still practicing
years of tradition was really cool. Though the town is not bustling like
it was many years ago, I'm glad that people still make it a point to
travel to Arbroath just for the
smokie. I would definitely recommend a visit to Arbroath, if not for its
smokie, then for its history.
Sources:
1) Wikipedia: Abroath
2) The Larder (9 July 2012) by Catharina Day
3) M&M Spink Arbroath 10 Marketgate, Arbroath, Angus, Scotland DD11 1AY UK